The most westerly point of northern England, the start of the Coast to Coast, and a village named after a saint who may never have existed.
After a day riding buses in the Lake District, I arrived in Whitehaven and stayed in its southern suburb of Corkickle. There is a railway tunnel between Whitehaven and Corkickle which is presently closed owing to the discovery of old mine workings which pre-date the railway line. As a result the long Cumbrian Coast line is severed and a short bus replacement covers the two stations. Long grass is growing over the track at Corkickle and there is not much evidence of work going on, so I think the five minute coach transfer might be the order for some time.
One stop south of Corkickle is St Bees, where the land juts out into the Irish Sea, the most westerly part of northern England. It is a small village but there are maps posted widely by local mapmaker Tony Pennick. Take a photograph of one of these and you will be set for the day. You can walk the coastal paths, and St Bees is the start and end point of Alfred Wainwright’s Coast to Coast walk to Robin Hood’s Bay, passing through three National Parks: the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales and the North York Moors.
Nothing to do with bees
The name has nothing to do with bees. The village is named after the legend of St Bega, daughter of an Irish king, living sometime between 600 and 900 AD. She refused to marry the man of her father’s choice and fled in a small boat. Washed up here, she lived the life of a hermit, caring for local people. When she moved on to an unknown destination, she left behind her arm-ring.
Although it is not even certain that Bega existed, the village is named after her, first as Kirkby Becoc, later St Bees. The monks of the Priory, founded here after 1120, were custodians of the bracelet or arm-ring, believed to be her relic, and they told the story. The ring remained here until 1539 when the Priory was dissolved by Henry VIII.
After 1539, a garbled version of the legend became current, including this story. When Bega landed, she wanted to found a nunnery. She approached the Lord of Egremont, who laughingly promised her as much land as the snow would cover the next day. It was June, and the next day was Midsummer Day. But it snowed.
The church is now known as the Priory Church of St Mary and St Bega, which in Covid years celebrated its 900th anniversary. Opposite is the small public school, which is not open to visitors. While the inland village is nothing special, walk down to the beach to find a sandy stretch with a pleasant Beach Café, and the inviting Seacote Hotel. I did not stay there, but it was built by Lord Lonsdale after the arrival of the railway in 1849 made St Bees a popular tourist destination. Subsequent and current owners have altered the building but the original public bar entrance remains the same. Situated at the edge of the village, the road to the hotel ends at the sea, giving that perfect feeling of having come to the edge of everything.
Getting there and back
The rail journey back to the North East is over the Tyne Valley Line from Carlisle to Newcastle, starting at St Bees and using the bus connection between Corkickle and Whitehaven. The line hugs the coast for much of the way to Carlisle and is very scenic.
If you have not got a railcard, use the new Northern Explorer ticket, which is valid on Northern trains only, at £35 for a one-day adult and £18 for a one-day child. Other cheap tickets with railcard discounts are available.
Places to Go. Source: Alex Nelson, NATIONALRAIL
